Weaving fabric

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The fabric is woven from the interweaving of threads in rows and columns (vertical and horizontal), which are called fabric warps and wefts. The simplest type of fabric is taffeta, where the warp and weft threads cross each other to form the fabric. Taffeta texture is considered as a basic texture and is used in most fabrics.
To better understand the taffeta texture, consider a chess board; On the chess board, the playing houses are one in the middle of black and white. For example, if we consider the black houses as warp yarn and the white houses as weft yarn, the taffeta texture is exactly like a chessboard, and these threads cross each other to form the fabric. For this reason, taffeta is considered one of the basic fabrics and is used in most fabrics.

For example, taffeta is used to weave tarpaulin fabric in most cases; except in special cases such as judo clothes which are woven in the form of panama.

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Now that we have learned about the taffeta texture, which is the simplest type of texture, it is time to learn about the types of fabric texture and its different designs. In fact, we want to answer the question, “How does the texture of a fabric change?”

As mentioned, the taffeta texture is similar to a chess board, where the warp and weft threads are crossed inside each other. Now, for example, if these threads pass through each other in two, three, or other ways, the texture of the fabric will change. In fact, it is possible to adjust the number and the way the warp and weft threads are woven together in several ways, and with each of these adjustments, a new type of texture is created in the fabric.

There are three main textures in fabric, which are: Serge weave (which is also called kajrah), satin weave and satin weave

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The way fabric is woven by flat looms is that wefting is usually done in the same way in all fabrics, and the difference is in the type of wefting of the fabric, which causes the fabric to be woven with different designs.

What is the meaning of Direct Warping ?

To better understand this, consider a simple spool of thread. In this simple spool, a thread is wrapped around this spool until it fills the spool. Now suppose that there is a very large spool around which instead of one thread, say, three thousand threads are to be wound. This operation is called nesting; In fact, a very large spindle on which a large number of threads are wound together. These threads are actually the warp threads in the fabric.

After the skein is ready, it is placed behind the weaving machine to supply the required warp threads in the weaving of the fabric.

Types of wefting methods in fabric texture:

We mentioned earlier that in the weaving of all kinds of fabrics with flat weaving machines, the change in the type of texture depends on the way it is wefted. Now we want to check the wefting method completely.

Rapier weaving method:

In this method, when the warp threads are prepared in the weaving machine (for example, for taffeta, which is the simplest type of weave, they stand as one between the top and bottom), the weft thread passes through the warp threads with a hook and It goes to the end. In this way, method? they say. It should be noted that in some flat weaving machines, this operation is done by a hook, and in some machines, the weft thread is brought to the middle of the machine by the first hook, where it is delivered to the second hook and to the end. The device goes. Most flat woven fabrics are woven in this way.

After the wefting is done, the machine changes the opening of the fabric (changing the opening means changing the position of the warp threads, that is, for example, if the threads are one in the middle of the top and bottom before the next wefting, their place is changed) and then the next wefting is done in the same way and this operation continues until the end of weaving the fabric.

Air jet weaving method:

Weaving the fabric by flat weaving machines with the air jet method exactly like the method? Is; That is, the method of threading, or warp threads, and the way the weft yarn passes through the warp threads, is exactly the same as the previous method, with the difference that in the airjet method, instead of using a hook, the weft yarn is pushed by air pressure and with a throwing mode from It passes between the warp threads.

Using air pressure in the airjet method instead of the hook in the method? It significantly increases the speed of fabric weaving. In fact, the main reason for inventing this method and its important difference with the previous method is the high speed of fabric weaving.

Water jet weaving method:

Another method of wefting in flat weaving machines is the waterjet method. This method is actually similar to the airjet method, with the difference that water pressure nozzles are used for wefting. In fact, the weft thread is soaked in water and is thrown to the end of the machine by water pressure nozzles. After that, the machine changes the opening (the position of the warp threads is changed) and the next wefting is done.

Makoi method:

Another method of weaving all kinds of fabrics using flat weaving machines is the makoi method. The makoi method is the oldest and most primitive method of fabric weaving. In this method, the weft thread is wound on a small spool and placed inside the mako. Mako, which actually carries the weft thread, mechanically passes between the warp threads, and in this way, it passes the weft thread between the warp threads and reaches the end of the fabric. After that, the warp threads are moved or the so-called opening of the machine is changed, and the machine continues its movement towards the beginning of the fabric, and this operation is repeated until the end of the fabric texture.

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Projectile weaving method:

In this method, the weft yarn is shot from one side of the machine to the other side by means of special cartridges. in the method? Instead of one weft thread, a large number of, for example, 24 weft threads can be passed through the warp threads with one shot. After the shot is done by the cartridge and the weft threads are fixed in place, the cartridge returns to the beginning of the device and is ready for the next shot.